As we enter our 30s, we begin to look for skin care products that are effective in improving our skin texture and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Having an anti-aging skin care routine is good for your skin. One ingredient often found on the labels of such products is beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Whether it’s a cleanser, eye cream or sunscreen, BHA is often used in skin care products. Read on to learn about beta hydroxy acid and how it can be used for aging skin.

What is beta hydroxy acid?

Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) refers to a class of chemical compounds that contain salicylic acid. BHAs are oil-soluble, making them particularly effective at exfoliating the skin and unclogging pores, says dermatologist and venereologist Dr Aditi Wadhwa.

Salicylic acid, the most common BHA, is derived from a compound called salicin found in willow bark. It is widely used in skin care products such as cleansers and toners to address various skin problems including acne and uneven skin texture.

How are alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids different?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids are chemical compounds commonly used in skin care for their exfoliating properties. Here are some differences –

1. Solubility

AHAs such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and citric acid are water soluble. They work on the skin’s surface, exfoliating and removing dead skin cells to improve texture, reduce fine lines, and address issues like hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.

BHAs are oil-soluble, a property that allows them to penetrate pores and work inside follicles. Expert says BHAs are effective in treating problems related to clogged pores.

2. Mechanism of exfoliation

AHAs primarily exfoliate the outer layer of the skin. BHAs, with their ability to penetrate oil, exfoliate inside pores. Individuals may choose to use AHAs and BHAs together or separately based on their specific skin concerns and sensitivities.

How does beta hydroxy acid help aging skin?

Beta hydroxy acid has many benefits for aging skin. Learn all about them!

1. Exfoliation and cell turnover

BHA penetrates into pores due to its oil-soluble nature. It helps to exfoliate inside the follicles, promoting the removal of dead skin cells. By facilitating cell turnover, BHA contributes to a smoother and more youthful complexion.

2. Reduction of swelling and redness

Aging skin is prone to increased sensitivity and inflammation. Salicylic acid, the most common BHA, has anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to soothe the skin, reduce redness and irritation, contributing to a calmer and more even complexion.

3. Addressing fine lines and wrinkles

Dr. Wadhwa says the exfoliating action of BHA not only helps with texture but also helps in addressing fine lines and wrinkles. By promoting cell turnover, it encourages the development of new, healthy skin cells, which improves the appearance of fine lines and contributes to a more youthful appearance.

4. Improving product penetration

BHA enhances the penetration of other skin care ingredients. Aging skin often benefits from using products that contain antioxidants, peptides and other anti-aging compounds. By improving the absorption of these ingredients, BHA complements the overall effectiveness of a skin care routine, promoting a more holistic approach to addressing the signs of aging.

How to use beta hydroxy acid for aging skin?

Here are some things to keep in mind when using beta hydroxy acid for aging skin:

• If you’re new to BHA, start with a low concentration (about 1 percent salicylic acid). Gradually increase the concentration if your skin tolerates it well.
• Look for products that are well formulated with BHA, such as cleansers, toners, or serums.
• Choose products with moisturizing and soothing ingredients.
• Start once or twice a week, gradually increasing the frequency if well tolerated.
• Use BHA in the evening to reduce the risk of sunburn. If used during the day, follow with a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher), as it can increase skin sensitivity to sunlight.
• Apply BHA after cleansing and before heavy products like moisturizers. It can be layered with other targeted treatments or serums, taking into account potential interactions and irritations.
• Look for signs of irritation such as redness, dryness or excessive peeling. Reduce the frequency of use or switch to a lower concentration if irritation occurs.

Who should avoid using beta hydroxy acid?

There are certain groups of people who should be careful or avoid using BHA. Some of them are:

1. Pregnant or lactating women

The safety of BHA during pregnancy and lactation has not been definitively established. Although topical application is generally considered safe, pregnant or breastfeeding women should consult a doctor before using products containing BHA, the expert suggests.

2. Those with extremely sensitive skin

People with extremely sensitive or compromised skin, such as eczema or rosacea, may find BHA too harsh and irritating. It is essential to prioritize skin barrier health and choose products that suit the specific needs of sensitive skin.

3. Children

BHA use in children is generally not recommended without a doctor’s guidance. Children’s skin is more sensitive and their skin barrier cannot tolerate the exfoliating effects of BHA.

4. People with open wounds

Applying BHA to open wounds, cuts, or broken skin can be painful and increase irritation. Heal your skin before adding BHA to your skin care routine.